We cover roses for the winter in Siberia - features of the procedure
Roses belong to capricious perennials, so not all gardeners manage to grow a beautiful and luxuriantly blooming rose garden. With good care and attention, you can get large buds even in a harsh climatic zone. Consider how to cover roses for the winter in Siberia, so that they do not freeze and please with beauty next year.
Optimal timing
In Siberia, roses are covered about 10 days before the upcoming frost. Usually this time falls on the end of October.
The bushes should be prepared before late autumn. All procedures begin to be carried out in the second half of the summer.
Preparing for shelter
In August, they stop feeding so that the roses stop growing green mass and go into a dormant stage.
In early September, it is advisable to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium preparations. Alternatively, you can use wood ash.
After that, they start cutting - remove all the leaves, faded buds, broken off branches damaged by diseases and pests. The scheme is different for each type:
- For standard varieties, cardinal pruning is not required, their branches are neatly bent to the ground, sprinkled with garden soil. Only those branches that do not bend well are trimmed.
- In climbing varieties, dried and old shoots are cut off. Usually, stems older than three years are removed on the ring. Also, too long branches are subject to pruning, since during the winter they will simply break off from the wind. Sore areas damaged by sores and parasites are cut out, after which they are burned.
Some gardeners refuse this procedure, because they believe that it will only harm the bushes - through the injured places there is a high risk of infection and pests. Others, on the contrary, argue that after cutting, roses are easier to keep in the winter.
Shelter methods and rules
Using hilling
Such a shelter will protect you from severe frosts.
Spruce branches are recognized as one of the oldest and most popular covering materials. But it is only suitable for specimens no more than 0.5 m high.
- The aboveground part is laid on the eve of frost, if covered earlier, the branches of roses can rot in freezing temperatures. Insulate in sunny and dry weather.
- First, loosen the soil around the bottom of the plant so as not to damage the root system, to about a depth of 5 cm.
- After that, the bush and the ground under it are irrigated with a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid.
- Sprinkle on top with a thick layer of wood ash - 2-3 cm. It will create protection against damage from diseases and pests.
- As soon as the night temperature drops below -5 ° C, they begin to hilling the near-trunk zone with peat.
- Young seedlings (up to 3 years old) fall asleep at half the height of the shoots, adults - by 1/3.
Before mulching, it is important to make sure that the mulch is dry, otherwise the plant will not receive the required amount of oxygen, as a result, it will suffocate.
Next, we cover the aboveground part - it is covered with spruce or pine branches.
The remaining voids should not be covered with grass, hay or fallen leaves. When moisture enters the structure from lack of air, the bush will begin to weep.
Air dry
Most gardeners use polyethylene to insulate this flowering perennial.
The method is proven and effective - the bushes do not freeze, but for this you need to provide good ventilation, otherwise they will rot under such material.
To equip the structure, several components are required:
- arcs or rods made of metal;
- greenhouse film;
- roofing material.
Insulation technology:
- prepared roses are tied for ease of laying on the ground;
- arcs are installed over them;
- additionally, grooves for water are pulled out at the edges so that it does not flow under the film;
- as soon as the first frosts begin, we cover the frame with roofing material, put polyethylene on top of it.
Under such insulation, moisture will not accumulate inside the structure, so the flowers will not rot or rot. To provide oxygen access, roofing material must be slightly opened.
This method can be used to cover entire rows. Instead of this material, bituminous paper, cardboard is suitable. They are also thrown over arcs, covered with a film on top.
Other options
Today they use modern materials - agril, spunbond, lutrasil. The optimum density should be no more than 60 g per 1 m².
At the same time, it is important to follow the insulation technique - the waxed side of the rose is covered in two layers. This thickness provides adequate oxygen access. Lutrasil, soaked in the rain, tends to dry out quickly.
The edges of the fabrics are fixed with bricks or something heavy so that they are not blown away by the wind.
As gardeners note, under such insulation, roses survive the winter better than single specimens - a comfortable temperature regime for the bushes is created under a large area due to heating by the earth.
When to take cover
It is very important to remove the insulation in time. The optimal time is in the spring, when the heat of the street stabilizes.
The bushes are gradually accustomed to sunlight, opening the edges of the covering material. After a few days, one side is completely opened, and after the same time, the other. To avoid burning the aboveground part, this must be done in cloudy weather.
Spruce branches or pine branches are harvested during the snow melting period. If you do this later, moisture will penetrate inside, the shoots will begin to rot. In the first 10 days, the bushes are shaded at lunchtime, which helps them gradually adapt to sunlight.
After that, they begin seasonal work - sanitary pruning, feeding, watering to stimulate growth and development.
Conclusion
There are several ways to hide roses for the winter that can be spent in Siberia, which one to choose depends on the available material at hand.
The main thing is to properly prepare the bushes, have time to insulate them before the first cold weather, and after wintering, open them in time. Then your bushes will delight you not only with good health, but also with lush, bright, long flowering.